Becasse
While others are committed to “dry-July”, it’s actually my favorite month for drinking as it is laden with Champagne events. Last year, it was the fantastic events during Dom Perignon week, and this year didn’t fail to disappoint.
The Comité Champagne, together with Vogue Entertaining + Travel collaboratively held a dinner at Becasse, where Justin North created a modern French menu to match my favorite liquid indulgence – French Champagne.
Bollinger’s Australian brand manager, Paul Boothby mentioned that Australia still remains as one of the top 10 countries for Champagne consumption, with 3 Million bottles sold last year (that’s 140,000 bottles consumed more than other countries such as China), and that makes us a very strong Champagne market (with good taste!).
The selection for the night included some beautiful vintages, but we shouldn’t let them steal the show, as the NV’s are usually the harder blends to make. A good vintage comes around five times a decade, and 20% of it goes into the blends to make the non-vintage. The difficulty in creating a consistent flavour and quality in the NV release is far higher.
Justin North has put together a harmonious menu where each course complements and brings out the elegant characteristics of each type of Champagne. Due to the “micro climates” within each appellation, the different terrior and temperatures give each champagne its own unique characteristics, much like different regions for wine.
Canape
Louise Roederer Brut Premier, Reims
Amuse bouche
Escabeche of scampi with gazpacho granita
NV Moët & Chandon Rosé, Epernay
Entree
Raviolo of spanner crab with Champagne cabbage and lemongrass velouté
NV Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, Reims
Middle Course
Fricassée of calf’s tongue, marron and scallop, Jerusalem artichoke
1996 Champagne Lanson Gold Label
Main
Roast Breast and crispy spiced leg of quail with parsnips and dried cranberry jus
NV Larmandier-Bernier Brut Rosé de Saignée, Vertus
Dessert
Citrus tart with strawberry and vanilla yogurt sorbet
1999 Veuve Clicquot Rich, Reims
And to highlight one of my favorite vintages: 1996
Champagne (1996 Lanson)
For an unknown reason, the 1996 vintages are both high in acid and in fruit ripeness, whereas normally, only one of those characteristics shine through. We were served the Lanson – and the best thing? It was poured from magnums, known to have the best volume to liquid ratio, and a gem for the cellar.
