We live in a world of microwave meals, instant noodles, food deliveries and fast food to comply with our hectic lifestyles. We’re spoilt with so many conveniences in terms of food, when it comes to a dish like risotto, it gets a little overwhelming for a lot of us. Funnily enough, it is that overwhelming feeling that makes me most appreciative of a risotto dish. There are no short-cuts, no instant risotto mix, no cheats. The amount of effort you put into your risotto is directly correlated to how wonderful the results will be. The simplicity of this rule allows anyone to have the skills to re-create a restaurant quality dish.

The most important thing you must consider is the quality of your ingredients, if you are spending the amount of time and effort to make a risotto it will only be ruined if your ingredients are sub par to begin with. My personal favorite is the Vialone Nano rice, although Carnaroli will do just fine as well (I was unable to find any Vialone Nano while I was shopping in the West Village). Use good sea salt, extra virgin olive oil, freshly grated cheese. (If you buy anything pre-grated or pre-packaged, well – stop reading and get out before I smack your face with a Parmesan rind).

The second most important thing is the sofritto. A sofritto is the foundation of the flavor that will slowly be built into the rice later. Most recipes will specify a white onion, garlic, a celery heart, and for the Milanese – bone marrow. The key to this is never brown any of the sofritto. Slowly sweat the onion on low heat with olive oil until it is translucent, so everything slowly disappears and absorbs into the rice as you move through to the tostato stage, where the rice is slightly toasted and a splash of wine or vermouth is added before we start adding the stock.

Stirring is important. A good risotto requires continuous attention – but attention that the ingredients deserve. Remember the wine you just opened to splash into the pan? Start drinking it! Cook with friends around you and share the wine and conversation. As long as you continue to stir the rice, and add the stock ladle by ladle, time will fly by. There’s something very edifying about watching every grain of rice hungrily soak up all the aromatic flavors and transforming into a rich creamy consistency. Don’t forget to let it stand for a few minutes before serving.

Some recipes out there calls for it, but I personally never add heavy cream to my risotto to help with the consistency. This is known as mantecato, and is a richer version than traditional risotto. I feel that it really takes away the flavor of the produce and all the work you’ve put in. Don’t do it!

I had originally planned to cook a traditional Risotto alla Milanese (with saffron), but I received a wonderful surprise in the mail that very day – fresh white truffles from Alba, Italy. Hence, I’ve created a white truffle risotto recipe in the style of a Milanese, probably breaking a few traditional rules. I would actually welcome your criticisms (especially from Italians), though I was very happy with the decadent result.

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 small eshallot, finely chopped
100 g popped bone marrow (Soaked in salted water for 1 hour)
1½ cups carnaroli rice
⅔ cup dry white wine or dry vermouth
5 cups chicken stock, heated
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra
1-2 ounces white truffle, thinly shaved, divided
Good conversation and good friends

Method:

Store your white truffles with the dry rice in an airtight container for just over 24 hours, so the aroma is infused into rice.

In a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, warm with olive oil. Add the onion and eshallot, sauté until translucent (do not brown!). Add the bone marrow and continue to cook on low heat until almost melted.

Add the rice, and toast for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Splash in the wine, and stir until all liquid is absorbed.

Add the stock one ladle at a time, and cook until the liquid is absorbed. One absorbed, add another ladle of stock and repeat. Stir evenly, half a circle at a time, almost making a “Yin Yang” pattern and watch the sides of the pot to make sure there are no drier sections left behind.

Once all the stock is absorbed (about 40 minutes later), the rice should be looking creamy but still al dente in texture. Stir in the butter, Parmigiano and half of the truffle shavings. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

Allow the risotto to stand with the heat off, and the lid on for five minutes. It will make all the difference.

Serve garnished with more truffle shavings and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Serves 4 very happy individuals (you know who you are!)

Truffle slicer

Photo credit: Anthony Bo Chan

Like my post? Spread it like butter!