Michel Roux’s approach to cuisine is all about removing the complexity from dishes and making the experience clean and crisp. He arrived in England in 1971 with his older brother Albert, to open the original Le Gavroche Restaurant in Lower Sloane Street, London and it was an instant hit during a time where fine dining was not popular. By 1972 they opened famous The Waterside Inn in Bray (still holding 3 Michelin stars in the 2010 London guide).

Michel Roux Snr

Michel and Albert have trained over 800 young chefs (many of whom are now world famous) with the Roux Scholarship, which is considered the ultimate British competition for chefs.

With both Michel and Albert’s sons taking over their respective restaurants, Michel is now a celebrated published author, teaching the art of cooking to amateur home cooks through his collection of how-to books that are easy to understand, and known to be a bible of homemade sauces and pastry.

Roux is known for staging sauces as the main star of the dish instead of a garnish, and his use of pastry, both savoury and sweet is just delightful.

His degustation menu at Altitude was classical French and our tastebuds were instantly transformed back to a time where rich buttered sauces, mouseelines and layers of sweetness mingled with traditional French culinary rules.

Well, without further ado… may I let the photos speak for themselves:

Chilled avocado soup, served with a sea trout tartar and yellow peach, garnished with a Charolais soft cheese crouton

Flaked mud crab with melon and fresh almonds served with marinated prawns

Poached egg in a pastry case with asparagus tips and a mousseline sauce

Pan fried scallops served on a bed of lime scented carrot mousseline and satay sauce

Poached fillet of sole filled with lobster mousse

Roasted loin of lamb stuffed with aubergine confit and grilled pine kernels “gateau” of moussaka and a light saffron flavoured jus

Roasted Thirlmere duck with a lemon thyme jus, potato and garlic mousseline

Refreshing lemon dessert on a crisp biscuit base, sweet basil sorbet

The one thing that stands out most from this menu was Michel’s use of pastry. It was made to pure perfection – buttery, flakey, light as air, and a textural highlight. This was most evident in the pastry case with poached egg and clearly our table’s favorite dish of the night.

It was a truly enjoyable experience, though it was a shame that dinner took well over 5 hours. Even Mr. Tony Bilson himself on the table next to us received no faster service. Mr Roux did find time to come by for a moment of friendly chit chat, like the French grandfather we never had, his eyes twinkling with kindness.

The one thing I do admire most is how both him and his brother were able to pass their knowledge and empire for their sons to take over with great success. Who wouldn’t want to learn from a master such as Michel Roux?

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